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Drizzling off a spoon, “draw” a few lines of the melted chocolate across the iced slices then lightly drag a cocktail stick across each one twice for a “feathered” finish. 1 Combine the flours, salt, yeast, poppy seeds and sugar in one bowl, and the vanilla, 2 eggs, water and oil in another. Yoghurt, I recently discovered, can be an excellent substitute – an unlikely baking saviour. Chill this in the fridge while you preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Leave to cool and firm up on their trays for 10 minutes or so before carefully shimmying them on to a wire rack to finish cooling. No frippery, no fancy equipment, no fuss. His sidekick, Donkey, points out that he’d be better off likening himself to cake: people like cake, not onions. Buns are my favourite things to bake: the lengthy knead and slow rise are perfect antidotes to my tendency to rush and fuss over things. When the peaks stiffen, stop whisking. Once it’s nearly incorporated, add the melted butter and orange zest and fold in. I’m convinced that if everyone indulged in the occasional, cathartic bun-baking session there would be therapists put out of business. Orange zest gives an extra kick. No need to worry about reducing the seeds to a perfectly smooth powder – in fact, it’s nice to see flecks of fennel in the finished dough. When Ruby Tandoh announced that she was leaving her newspaper recipe column in 2018, I sent a tweet: “A food media that can’t accommodate a voice as eloquent, compassionate, generous, honest and joyful as Ruby’s needs to ask itself some serious questions.” Unlike many things on the internet, this has aged well. Much of it goes into the cakes, biscuits and pastries desperately palmed off on anyone who braves a house visit – but just the sight of so much fat in the fridge is unnerving even for me. An easy-but-impressive showstopper? Gradually add the rest of the milk, whisking constantly. Once the milk’s hot, add 1-2 tbsp to the egg yolk mixture along with the malt drink powder and stir to combine. Each one, though – sweet, savoury, rustic or refined – taught me something new. I then hurry to the self-checkout (mercifully non-judgmental), do a couple of Hail Mary Berrys and promise that I won’t ever buy ready-rolled, own-brand puff pastry sheets again. Continue to whisk, adding the remaining 100g sugar one tablespoon at a time. Sprinkle over the vegetarian gelatine and whisk to combine. Spoon into the loaf tin and bake for 50-55 minutes. Despite the amount of golden syrup that goes into this cake, it’s not actually as sickly as you’d expect: the dark brown sugar, rich with treacly depth, balances the simpler sweetness of the syrup. Bake the pastry for 20 minutes, then remove the upper baking tray and top sheet of baking parchment and return to the oven for a further 5 minutes. Invert it on to a sheet of baking parchment dusted with the icing sugar, then peel off the old sheet of parchment from the upturned meringue. Gently fold until nearly combined, then sift in the remaining flour and fold until just homogenous. If you’re on the hunt for lightness or refinement, you’d better look elsewhere: this is comfort food in all its syrup-soaked, indulgent glory. Once it’s risen, tip the dough out and divide into 6 pieces. Leave to cool completely before slicing and serving. Ruby Tandoh's top tips for baking on a budget - BBC Good Food 5 Leave the fougasses to rise at room temperature for 30-45 minutes, or until visibly puffier. 3 Leave the dough to rise for 1-1½ hours. We use cookies on this site and by continuing to browse it you agree to sending us your cookies. Makes 12For the sponge15g butter 1 large egg1 large egg yolk40g caster sugar40g plain flourZest of 1 orangeFor the orange jelly100ml orange juice (from 1½ -2 oranges)Juice of 1 lemonZest of 1 orange3 tbsp caster sugar1 tsp (3g) vegetarian gelatine substitute 100g dark chocolate`1 Grease a 12-hole muffin tin and line the bottoms with circles of baking parchment (I know it’s a hassle, but it’ll make unmoulding easier). Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar and cornflour. Simmer for 1 minute then turn off the heat, decant into a bowl and stir in the vanilla. She quickly impressed with her creative approach to ingredients and flavour taking precedence over decoration. Each one, though – sweet, savoury, rustic or refined – taught me something new. 4 Whisk together the egg yolks with 100g caster sugar until thick, creamy and far paler in colour. 6 Cover the tin loosely with clingfilm and leave to rise for a further 45-60 minutes, until the buns are about double the size. 3 Once the dough has risen, stir together the filling ingredients. They’ll set harder as they cool, so don’t worry if they’re soft just after baking. We’ll be serving up the choicest dishes from stars of the restaurant and blogging world for you. Bake for 10 minutes before turning the oven temperature down to 180C/350F/gas mark 4 to cook for a further 15 minutes. 4 Bake in the preheated oven (in batches, if necessary) for 15-17 minutes, until the cookies’ edges are golden brown and the centres are puffy. 2 Return the dough to its bowl, cover with clingfilm and leave to rise at room temperature until roughly doubled in size – it should take 1-1½ hours. Pour the dry ingredients into the yoghurt mixture along with the blueberries and fold the lot very gently together, taking care not to mix any more than is necessary: overzealous stirring at this stage could result in a tough cake later. Move to the fridge or freezer to quickly cool the chocolate, then return to room temperature once set. Now take the left-hand strand and bring it over the two strands to its right, then back under the last strand it crossed. Orange and fennel fougasses (bottom) and a blueberry yoghurt loaf cake. 5 Bake for 25 minutes or until golden and crisp. Melt butter over low heat, then add flour and whisk until smooth. It’s ready when a small knife inserted into the centre of the cake comes out with no more than a couple of crumbs stuck to it. Now weave the far right-hand strand over the two strands immediately to its left, then back under the last strand it went over. Top with the final four rectangles of pastry. Its subtle aromatics make it a joy to bake with, and the sheer breadth of teas available can only expand your repertoire. These recipes are here to inspire you. 4 Transfer the loaves to a greased baking tray or two, cover with clingfilm and leave to rise for 45-60 minutes or until 1½ times their original size. I find it hard to get excited about slimy, translucent, near‑flavourless egg whites, but I can’t bear to throw them away. As soon as this is basically combined but still marbled, add the next third, and so on. Here is a recipe that could, I hope, mean salvation for your neglected eggs: a berry meringue roulade to whip sad whites into shape. This loaf is packed with naturally sweet fruit, so I’ve gone easy on the sugar here but you could add more if you wanted this to feel more like a fruit cake than a bread. From Anne: "Ruby Tandoh’s Crumb aims to provide a relaxed, practical guide to baking. 8 Melt the dark chocolate. Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. 2 In a clean bowl (preferably metal) whisk the egg whites and lemon juice until completely foamy. The mixture will hold firm crests when it’s ready, but take care not to over-whisk it, as the whites aren’t very stable and you may weaken them. It should be crisp on top and chewier inside. 6 Whisk together the egg yolk and milk and brush lightly over the risen fougasses with a pastry brush. Her first book, Crumb, was published in 2014. Don’t be concerned when the meringue splinters: this is normal. 4 It’s now time to shape the fougasses. Ruby Tandoh on How She Got Into Baking "Meaning is located in the impossible opera cake, or the baked Alaska, or the meringue buttercream: that thing that one day you will master." 4 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6 and have a couple of baking trays to hand. Makes 6300g strong white flour1½ tsp instant dried yeast½ tsp salt2 tsp fennel seedsZest of two oranges115g full-fat natural yoghurt130ml warm water, To finish1 egg yolk1 tbsp milk4 tbsp demerara sugar. Roll four of these pieces, on a lightly floured work surface, to 30-35cm-long sausage shapes. These are bakes focused on flavour and committed to simplicity. The recipe makes just the right amount of batter for a 22cm-diameter tin. Use a sharp knife to make a long incision down the length of the oval, leaving the ends intact to avoid bisecting it – this is much like the central vein of a leaf. Add the water and olive oil and mix to a rough dough. 3 Sift the flour over the egg and sugar mix and gently fold in using a metal spoon, cutting through with a figure of eight motion to incorporate the flour without deflating the eggs. And excitingly, there’s more that can be done with tea than just drinking it. It’s worse still with the delicious yolks. Registered number: 861590 England. When I first started baking, the cooking was just a hindrance to the hedonism, but the more I learnt, the more I grew to enjoy that process: kneading became more sensuous than strenuous; even making meringue turned from endurance event to exciting metamorphosis. Who said patisserie need be difficult? 4 Leave the cake to cool in its tin. Leave to cool slightly. Enjoy within a day or so of making or, ideally, while it’s still a little warm, with thick custard and a drizzle of golden syrup. It’s the right consistency when the mixture falling from the whisk leaves a ribbon on the surface of the mix. Not only is it lower in fat, it brings a tangy flavour and creates a tender crumb. 1 Combine the flour, yeast, salt and sugar in a mixing bowl. Knead for 10 minutes, then return the dough to its bowl, re-cover with the clingfilm and leave to rise at room temperature until almost doubled in size. Roll your sleeves up and get stuck in: mix the ingredients with your hands to form a rough dough. Add tea bags to 1 1/4 cups boiling water, and let steep 10 minutes. The best pies are the ones you can eat with your hands, which is where hot-water pastry comes in handy. Sift in half the flour. The popular Great Baking Show competitions in America and the UK introduced many of us to Vallery Lomas and Ruby Tandoh.Lomas won the US show’s third season in 2017, which was canceled by ABC after only one episode aired after judge Johnny Iuzzini was widely accused of sexual misconduct; Tandoh … If you’re a fan of The Great British Bake Off, Flavour from Season 4 runner-up Ruby Tandoh is the perfect match for you. Ruby subsequently wrote a weekly food column for the Guardian for two years, has written columns for British ELLE and has made documentaries for BBC Radio 4. RUBY TANDOH is a weekly food columnist for the Guardian and has written for British Elle.At the age of twenty, she was the youngest ever contestant on The Great British Bake Off, where she impressed judges and viewers alike with her creative approach to ingredients and her focus on flavor over decoration.Tandoh lives—and bakes—in north London. Get our latest recipes straight to your inbox every week, Find your favourite recipes from Nigella's brand new TV series, Cook, Eat, Repeat, here. You can make anything from sticky Chelsea buns to cream splits, doughnuts and brioche rolls; you can fill them with nuts, fruit, zest or spice or even flood them with a boozy glaze. There’s a lot to be said for mixing vibrant colours and flavours on a plate, but when the wind’s whistling through the gaps in the window panes and the mice have moved back in for the winter, it’s in brown and beige foods that we seek solace: bread, toffee, chocolate, cubes of melting fudge, sizzling roast potatoes. The recipes below will, I hope, showcase the best of golden syrup: first in chewy cookies, then in a sticky loaf cake. In some cases – with green tea for instance – you can even finely grind the tea and include it directly in the dry ingredients of the recipe. Get our latest recipes, competitions and cookbook news straight to your inbox every week

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